Hey Jimmy! My name is Connor Cowles and I am from Northern Indiana and recently purchased a 2012 yz450f. I am coming from 2009-2010 rmz450′s so F.I is nothing new to me…but i am much happier on the yamaha…Anyways I was surfing the web and came across your article on dirtrider asking the readers to email you for mapping suggestions..Well i have the gytr tuner and love it!! I have pulled some of the maps off of yamahas site and played with them and experimented a bit. So far i like the slick track map and stock (all 0′s). The bike is still stock but soon we will be running a yoshi rs-4 on it and possibly a gytr head, cams and piston.. This is obviously going to affect jetting. My big question is though, i hear that the 2011 yz450f map is all 0′s…right? well would the 2012 map be all zeros for stock? how would i achieve the stock 2011 map if my tuner is stock on all zeros? I like the snap of the 2011′s, but i know the longer pipe is holding it back a ton! I know each yami’s ecu remember the running time so maybe the 2012 is just as smart and knows that zeros are stock? im a bit lost and have found no help on the net for this subject.. I would imagine though.. that the 2012 needs some special #’s to become the 2011 bike.. but any help would be very generous and very well appreciated! THANKS!Sincerely,
Connor CowlesConner,The default map inside the ECU is different for the different year YZs and all 0s on the tuner sets the bike to run as stock. The ’11 and ’12 are different in the ECU’s base map and all the tuner does is alter that map. The stock map in the ECU is always the baseline the modifications are trimmed off of it. I hope that clears up any confusion on that part of the question.
If you wanted a more “2011″ map in your 2012 bike, my experience would be to add some ignition advance (+1to 3) to the lower RPM and lower throttle position and then try taking away fuel in the same ranges. This will give the bike a snappier throttle and more hit, which is what the 2010 and 2011 had in comparison to the 2012. The exhaust was not the biggest factor in the power change you seem to feel, it was the mapping change. Trust me the longer pipe is not holding the bike back one bit, it is your right wrist most of the time in conjunction with what you hear and not what you feel.But, going by the fact that you like the slick track map, changing the muffler is not going to help the feeling you are looking for. I’d suggest trying out our map (picture included) and see if that is the direction you are looking to go then make changes. And from experience I’d start with the GYTR head first and start adding pieces on after that in a step-by-step process with decisions made based on what type of power enhancements you are looking for. The modified setup you describe is a completely different engine character than what you currently have and will for sure require altered fuel and ignition mapping to run properly. Good luck and let me know what you think of our map.JIMMY