Perfect Controls - Dr. Dirt

16 Even when starting with a new cable, Siraton lubes it with silicone spray. Just remember, once you start lubing these parts, you must continue to lube them regularly. If you don't want the work, replace them often and leave 'em dry!

17 We installed a used perch on this bike, but it allowed Siraton to show how far he disassembles, cleans and lubes the clutch system after every event-sometimes at a WORCS race with different classes, between races!

18 Each part is meticulously cleaned before assembly. As the perch goes together, moving parts get lubed. This spring detent for the clutch quick adjust gets a dab of grease to allow it to work smoothly.

19 The Elite perch must use a Works Connection boot instead of the stocker, so it is siliconed up to let it slide over the cable easier. You can warm the boot a little if you're working in the cold.

20 Since this is a "weekend warrior" bike, a new, modified stock lever was used with a tiny dab of grease on the pivot bolt. All excess is wiped away to keep it from attracting dirt.

21 We finally moved to the brake system (shown without the throttle to make it easier to see). Siraton started by removing the old, bent stock lever and going through his cleaning ritual as with the other components.

22 Like the clutch side, the brake pivot bolt was dry and scored from running dry and being overwashed. This bolt and the lever will be replaced with new parts. Aftermarket pivot bolts won't have the smooth finish of the stocker.

23 You'll need to save the adjustable actuator bolt; on some bikes it's secured with a tiny circlip. You need to remove that clip before removing the bolt. Failure to do so will destroy the lever threads and possibly the bolt threads.

24 The lever return spring is cleaned and treated to a grease bath. This aids lever feel and the sticky grease helps the spring stay in place during assembly.

25 The surface of the stock pivot bolt is chromed for longer life and smoother action. Use a dab of grease for optimum feel, but run it dry or with a powder lube like graphite if you aren't willing to disassemble and clean it regularly.

26 Notice how clean all the parts of the brake are before final assembly. The master cylinder plunger gets a dab of grease before the lever is installed.

27 The pivot threads into the perch, so the bolt is merely snugged up. Hold the bolt while you install and tighten the locknut. That keeps you from pulling the ears of the master cylinder into the lever by overtightening it.

28 Siraton carefully measures from bar clamp to the end of the bar on both sides to make sure the grips are at exactly the same distance from the clamp. The throttle end is one layer thicker, so the bar may be slightly offset to equalize the grip distance.

29 The cables and wires are carefully routed and secured with electrical tape or the stock reusable cable ties. Run the kill button wire to the bottom of the handlebar to prevent tiedown damage.

30 Siraton's final tip is to cover the joint in the throttle halves with tape. This is generally only an issue in sand or silt, but it also helps keep water out of the throttle housing while washing.